lowered suspension

[leedsy]

:) Hi very new to 2cv,s just purchased my first one! and then found this website! I would like to lower my 2cv like the race ones (not gona race it yet but love the look!) where do I start? what do I need to do? where do I get the bits? any help would be very much appriciated! thanku ;D

[Andrew Bull]

Hello There,

Lowering is very simple and straightforward.  Although there are a few drawbacks. 

The standard 2cv suspension uses horizontal 'tie rods' between the spring can and the knife edge at the suspension arms.  These tie rods are approximatley 10mm diameter and about 400mm long.  They run along the same axis as the shock absorbers, and can be seen if you look under the car quite easily.  They are literally screwed in to the 'eye' at the arm end.  To adjust the suspension;

1) with the car level on flat ground measure the height of the car at each corner of the sill. (for comparison)
2) jack the car up (and support!) at the corner you want to adjust so that the tie rod will wobble around freely (no tension on the rod)
3) Clean up the screwed joint and mark the tie rod so you can count the number of revolutions.
4) If fitted, undo the lock nut (sometimes on rears) and use a spanner on the flat area or a good pair of mole/vise grips on the tie rod to unwind (its RH thread).  Sometimes these are well seized and require lots of cleaning and penetrating lube.  My advise would be to clean it and lube it three or four times over a few days, whilst its on the ground before trying to undo the joint.

What you are doing is lengthening the tie rod which in turn allows the arm to travel further upwards.  However, there is a small issue that the lower your suspension goes the heavier your steering will get.  This happens because the 'Kingpin inclination' (Castor) angle changes, and the kingpin is no longer upright but tilted backwards. On race cars we correct this by cutting and welding, (a specialist job) but i advise you try two or three turns only and see what you think.  This lowers the car a bit, but does not affect the steering too much.  It also means you wont be getting to the point where you only have two or three thread lengths of engagement in the eye.  If you unwind it all the way then you need to have at least 10mm of thread engagement to be safe.

If you decide to have a go, (at your own risk),  make a small change, (think about speed bumps) race cars run at only 40mm ground clearance, and springs that are 3-5 times stronger than road springs.  Always measure before and after, and count the number of turns you make, so you can go back to standard.  Buy a good manual and this should have the heights in it.


Be safe in your work.

This information is given with no responsibility implied.  Its your choice to act upon information provided here. 

[leedsy]

 ;D thankyou andrew for such a detailed description! i will definetly be giving it a go! thanks again! ;D

[Sean]

This bunch take lowering to very silly levels ;D
http://snail.s4.bizhat.com/index.php?mforum=snail
more custom than race
Sean